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"Pizza hounds, take note: This chewy-crusted, tangy-sauced pie
is definitely a contender.
Some speculate that when Italian pizza chefs left Manhattan
for the outer boroughs and 'burbs, they took the best slice
spots with them. Thankfully, this Long Island pizzaman
commutes into his cheery Greenwich Village pizza joint to
repair that image. The brightly-lit takeout spot with a few
non-descript tables and chairs looks like any other, but it
tastes ten times more homespun.
The secret to the superb "Nonna Maria" pie rests in the
owner's grandmother's thin-crusted Tuscan recipe. Hand-pulled,
yeasty dough, baked on a bed of crusty breadcrumbs with just
enough puff around the rim, is slathered with tangy, garlicky
tomato sauce, puddles of milky mozzarella, fresh basil and a
sprinkle of real Parmigiano. For gooey cheese people, there's
the "grandma," made with regular mozzarella... The behemoth
ricotta-sausage calzone is excellent..." |
